London’s fashion scene just proved that inclusivity isn’t a trend—it’s a movement. At the Victoria and Albert Museum, Sinéad O’Dwyer’s Fashion in Motion show turned the traditional catwalk on its head. Models of all sizes strutted, danced, and owned the space in everything from underwear to sequined skirt suits, backed by live punk energy from Jeanie and The White Boys.
This wasn’t your typical invite-only affair. Tickets cost just £5, and the public flooded in. For O’Dwyer, who has been challenging fashion’s thin obsession since her London Fashion Week debut in 2021, accessibility is part of the design. While most brands sample looks in sizes 4-8, she starts at size 18. Her celebrity fans—think Cardi B and Björk—already know what the industry is slow to learn: style has no size.
Why O’Dwyer’s Show Is a Wake-Up Call
The fashion world has been backsliding on body diversity. Despite moments of progress—like Paloma Elsesser winning Model of the Year in 2023—the numbers tell a stark story. According to the Vogue Business Size Inclusivity Report for autumn/winter 2026, a staggering 97.6% of runway models were straight-size (UK 4-8). That’s not just a miss; it’s a message.
O’Dwyer’s approach flips the script. Her casting director, Emma Matell, who also works with Lueder and Tolu Coker, notes that the industry is “back to wanting women to both metaphorically and physically take up less space.” The rise of GLP-1 weight-loss drugs has only amplified the obsession with thinness, making O’Dwyer’s platform more vital than ever.
The London Edge
London remains the outlier. While other fashion weeks lag, London consistently features more body diversity—though straight-size models still made up 92.7% of its runways. Designers like Mark Fast and Chopova Lowena are joining O’Dwyer in pushing boundaries this September. As Matell puts it, “Being inclusive is the most punk thing you can do.”
The Cost of Exclusion
Why does the industry resist? It’s not just aesthetics—it’s economics. Manufacturing clothes in larger sizes requires retooling patterns and supply chains, a costly shift many luxury houses avoid. But that’s a short-sighted move. The average UK woman wears a size 16, and mid-size and plus-size consumers have serious spending power. Yet 68% of plus-size respondents told Vogue Business they feel alienated by fashion. That’s a huge missed opportunity.
What Needs to Change
- Financial backing: Brands like O’Dwyer’s need investment to scale size-inclusive production.
- Systemic casting: Runways should reflect real bodies, not just sample sizes.
- Cultural shift: Move away from the “reverence for thinness” that GLP-1s have reignited.
- Consumer pressure: Keep demanding representation—brands listen to wallets.
Comparing Industry Standards
| Metric | Industry Average | O’Dwyer’s Approach |
|---|---|---|
| Sample size | UK 4-8 | UK 18 |
| Runway diversity (AW26) | 97.6% straight-size | Full size range |
| Public access | Invite-only | £5 tickets |
| Consumer alienation | 68% plus-size feel excluded | Inclusive ethos |
Why This Matters for Streetwear
Streetwear and Y2K aesthetics are built on self-expression, but they’ve often mirrored the industry’s exclusivity. O’Dwyer’s model proves that inclusivity can be radical, rebellious, and commercially viable. Seeing diverse bodies on luxury stages, she argues, has a ripple effect. She remembers wanting to be a size 6 as a young person without knowing why. That’s the power of representation—it shapes what we believe is possible.
Teens like Elenor Rowland and Orla McEvoy, who attended their first fashion show on Friday, felt the difference. Rowland noted that diverse casting “makes lots of people think: ‘Oh, I’m not that size. Maybe I should be.’” That’s the shift we need—not just on runways, but in every look we create.
FAQ
Why is body diversity in fashion declining?
Several factors are at play, including cultural backlash, the influence of weight-loss drugs, and manufacturing costs. The industry often prioritizes thinness over inclusivity, as seen in recent runway stats.
How can brands become more size-inclusive?
Start by sampling in a range of sizes, casting diverse models, and investing in adaptive manufacturing. It’s also crucial to listen to consumer feedback and avoid tokenism.
What role do consumers play?
Consumers drive demand. By supporting size-inclusive brands and calling out exclusive ones, you signal that representation isn’t optional—it’s expected.
Is London leading the way?
Yes, London Fashion Week consistently shows more body diversity than other major weeks. Designers like Sinéad O’Dwyer, Mark Fast, and Chopova Lowena are at the forefront.
Does inclusivity hurt luxury fashion?
No—it expands it. Excluding plus-size consumers alienates a massive spending demographic. Inclusivity can be both ethical and profitable.
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